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Porsadrill box sets

June 11, 2020

Tile drills



June 11, 2020

£119,942,364.76 A0364DW


June 3, 2020

Cap off service pipes drilled too large with a diamond drill system like Porsadrill 365 drills on porcelain tiles

July 1, 2009

Tile Drills oversized to fit service pipes By Richard Hazell of 365 Drills

How to drill a neat hole in a hard or soft tile and cap it off

This article is written by 365drills using porsadrill to cap off holes in ceramic or porcelain tiles

Whenver you drill a hole in a tile the outcome is either one of two things for your project

1) The hole is perfect and the service pipe fits snug

2) The hole is oversize and the pipe looks too small. In that case you can cap it off

This is a selection of standard service pipes that you would come across in a project

bath pipes 365

Our drill kit contains 16mm, 30mm and a 40mm service pipe cutter. As well as 6mm and 8mm for the fixtures and the fittings.

In this shot a raditor pipe is fitted to a tile with a 30mm diamond drill.

Looks like the hole is too big. But a cover plate makes the fitting look neat.

If you use the 16mm diamond drill to cut the hole the results are dramatic

These 15mm copper pipes have been fitted into the 16mm hole and look really neat. They need not be capped off.

But these cover plates conceal the larger gaps when it is not possible to drill such a small hole. The main reason that it may not be feasible is because the pipe may already have something fitted to it obstructing the way through like a radiator valve. In that case the 30mm is perfect. Also it may be that you want a certain amount of play in the tile hole so the pipe can move into posistion. A cover plate then hides the gap.

There is a generous 45mm of cover to hide the results of the tile drill behind. So the 30mm diamond drill is a perfect choice. Also we do a 40mm tile drill and yes you can fit that inside the footprint of the cover plate but you get very little clearance at 5mm on the edge. Best to stick with a 30mm.

This is a radiator fitted with perfect holes at 16mm so that the pipes are flush with the wall.

Here you see a closeup of the pipes and you can see the 16mm hole is flawless.

In this shot we show you what the pipes would look like if they were fitted with cover plates. You may prefer this look or it may be that the holes require you to fit them. In either case its nice to know that there are solutions.

In this shot the common pipe sizes are laid out as 15mm. 22mm and 32mm next to our drill plate which is 16mm, 30mm and 40mm. The BFKMX covers these service pipes very well.


diamond drill bits

Drilling a BATH with a diamond holesaw drill bit to make a hole for taps etc using Porsadrill from 365 drills

July 1, 2009

Drill or drilling a steel or cast iron bath

How to drill a hole in a bath

This article is written by 365drills using a porsadrill diamond to start the hole into a bath for a customer

Plus a remgrit holesaw (not supplied by us) to grind into the cast iron and finish the hole.

Tools Required:

  • 1 x drill with a standard chuck
  • 1 x diamond drill kit by 365drills
  • 1 x remgrit holesaw for cast iron

drill bath

This is a steel bath (you can cut cast iron baths as well) but steel is lighter.

The customer didn’t want the hole on the tiled wall but was afraid of chipping the enamel

drilling a bath

This is the bath corner he selected for the hole to be drilled.

bath hole

When we examined the bath this is the overflow hole and you can see how poor the finish is.

This hole above is not our work!

365 drills

We measured the bath tap which was a 40mm monoblock with a standard 35mm inner bore

monoblock tap
These bits are what go underneath the bath to tighten up the monoblock

bath tap

And this is a shot of the monoblock without all its fittings.

guide plate

Find the position of the hole using the 365drills guideplate. We used a 38mm drill because there is plenty of room under the tap ring to hide the bath hole.

drilling a bath tap hole

Same shot of the 365-drills guide plate but show from a slightly different angle. Once you drill the bath the hole can not be changed. Simple I know but there is no going back after.

diamond drill ennamel

First cut has been made with the 38mm diamond drill. As you can see the edges are perfect with no major chipping of the enamel protective bath coating. Large chips at this stage are a disaster so we use diamond crowns to wear down the paint with a fine grinding action.

hole drills bath

The hole has been cleaned of debris and the collar fitted to check for fit. As you can see we went slightly inside the 40mm diameter choosing to play safe and drill a 38mm ring. That way any fine chipping is held within the fitting and cant be seen.

cutting a hole in a bath

Next we drill a basic pilot hole for a remgrit holesaw to fit through.

We do not supply the remgrit holesaw

Doesn’t have to be perfect and can chip because its within the perimeter wall of the predrilled hole. But best to be careful!

holesaw bath
Stage one of the actual grinding. We set back the inner circle because that’s how the plumbing goes inside the tap.

monoblock tap

Can you see everything is offset rather than in the middle.


It takes about 30mins to grind out the hole with a grit edged holesaw. WARNING Everything GETS VERY HOT and messy so please go slow and try to cool it all down. If you use a battery drill to bore the hole in the bath then expect three battery changes. This project will drain the life of a battery drill very quickly. So be sure your kit is fully charged.


This is the back of the bath (or the underneath) you can see some sharp metal which must be removed by pliers and filed down. To prevent this we drilled from the underside for 2mm but you cant stop it all from jagging.

tap hole bath

And this is the finished result.

35mm hole in a bath

We tested all pipes into the bath tap to make sure it worked.

contemporary bathroom

bath pipes 365


diamond drill bits

Cutting a tile to install an electrical socket like a plug / switch with diamond tile drills from 365

July 1, 2009

Project – Cutting plug sockets

365 drills

Brief: Many tile project need to accomodate a socket. This is fine if the socket is offset and two, three or even four tiles can be cut to fit around the socket. But what if the tile is so big that the socket falls slap bang in the middle of the tile. Or the tile is small, fragile and the socket falls right in the middle. This project demonstrates two ways to remove the centre of the tile. Most important is that both will never break fragile tiles.

Safety note: The plug socket used in this demo is shown as wired but was not connected to any electrical supply. Never handle live wires with water.

Always wear safety googles, ear defenders and gloves when grinding or drilling.

Equipment required:

Professional tiler: 1 x BFKMX. 1x Angle grinder. 1 x drill. 1 x marker pen. 1 x set square.

One off tiler: 1 x BFKMX. 1 x battery drill.

Project Objective: install a socket slap bang into the middle of a tile. Quickly. And without breaking it.

diamond drills



1) Lets begin…

ceramic tiles

Mark out your tile to the place where you want your cutout.. You can find the centre using a set square although your socket will probably offset and not always right in the middle. If you can – always try to end up with the socket in the middle to make the job look nice.

2) Use the 16mm drill to drill out the corners

Use a mini angle grinder fitted with a diamond bland to score lines between each 16mm hole. It will get noisy and messy and please be careful with angle grinders because they are vicious things and will spit tile chips everywhere. Make sure its on a firm base. This is a black and decker workmate with a rubber top. As you can see by the tile a fair bit of washing will be needed.

So keep giving the tile a little wash to see where you are and to keep the dust down.

Score out in between each 16mm hole. By using a 16mm hole you should find that the radius of the grinder will clear inside the hole and will not “push on” into the tile. Its easy to go beyond the black lines so that when you fit the socket a little run line is poking out.. Not classy !

Once you ground three sides the Centre piece will “pop” when you have cut 3 sides fully! Lovely!

The result. But did you get the size right?

Pop the socket into the hole and test for fit. Worth doing is keeping an old socket so you dont muck up the customers new one.

Perfect !


This is for those of you who DONT have access to a mini grinder then you can use the drill bits to grind the lines

Reults are not as neat. But it does the job.

You can grind the back and meet in the middle.

Ok so its not elegant but its precission drilling. And it fits. And it didnt break.

On the left is the result without a mini grinder. On the right with a mini grinder

About the tools..

Mini grinders cost £14.99 check out screwfix

Diamond blades cost from £19.99

BFKMX cost £49.99

Service pipes into ceramic tiles. Drilling holes into ceramics with diamond drill bits like 365 porsadrill

July 1, 2009

Drilling ceramic tiles with diamond drills

When we originally set out to develop low cost drilling for hard porcelain tiles we never realized there would be side effects.

The side effects were – a) Perfect holes in ANY tile and b) Everlasting drills in soft ceramics

Seriously! – If you normally tile with the softer (standard) tiles then its now possible for you to own everlasting drills to produce perfect holes. And at £40 a set its really cheap. top quality work in the reach of all tilers for less than the cost of a curry!

365 Drills

Angela from sets up a demo of our porsadrill system. Main website

We discovered everlasting perfect drilling by accident when we did exhibition work. At the time it was not possible for us to drill porcelain all day because of the material cost plus a yawn inducing two minutes per hole.

Drilling ceramics

We needed a fast way to show off our drill plate technology and demo to fast moving crowds. So for exhibition work we switched over to cheap 7p standard white ceramic tiles.

diamond drilling of a tile

What we saw amazed not only the tilers at the stand but us as well. We could reproduce absolutely perfect holes in tiles again and again without a chip or dig in the glaze. And an even bigger surprise was that one diamond crown ate through hundreds of tiles without so much as a hint of going blunt all weekend.

In hindsight its easy to see why. Diamonds are so accurate they only nibble at a small section of tile. In contrast spear point drills swathe away from the center like a paddle swiping at the glaze leading to chipping. Tile hack saws are a crude instrument leaving rough edges. Diamond is also so hard the chances of it wearing out on thin glaze is impossible.

But the reason it took so long for the penny to drop was because we were totally focused at the top end. We assumed there was no market for our product on soft tile because standard tools would always be used on ceramics. So we ignored probably 90% of the tile market.

Tilers (of every level) should know our kit bores perfect holes into any tile. Why do we need to share that message? Well the point is that anything that helps raise the quality of finish is going to help you in your work. Once you tile an area the results of your labour are on display for everyone to see for years at a time. Your trade is the one thing people see day in day out. You are the finishers of projects for people. Your customers will be viewing your work and making comments to their friends and family about what you do for them. And so anything that can raise or improve your tecnique is going to go down very very well.

Have a look below at what we mean. This is a £39.99 pack of seven drills.

365 drill kit

And this is a tile which will will put a hot and cold feed and a waste pipe into.

ceramic tile drilling

For a sink you need a waste pipe and the hot and cold feeds. This is the 16mm drill for a 15mm pipe.

Guide Plate

The drill is locked in place by the drill plate. Just start drilling away at the tile

Richard Hazell

After a few seconds the glaze is broken and the diamonds are making short work of the soft back

diamond holesaw

A quick wipe of the sponge to show you there is not a chip in sight !

nearly drilled

The first hole is done. This 15mm pipe is shown with good clearance. Copper pipe or plastic is fine too.

drilling porcelain

We started the waste pipe hole in the same way. You can see both holes are absolutley superb.

perfect drilling

And this is the finished concept. There is a hot and cold 15mm feed. And a waste pipe. Not even a sign of damage.


How about this. The 30mm drill is wide enough for a shower head, body jet or 22mm pipe.


Have a look at the back of the tile. The drills dont “POP” out the back. The hole has strength because the drill has bored a tube rather than a cone. Lots of people rip out the back of tiles with angle grinders and then smash through from the front. Its a blunt instrument way of working. In contrast this tile is strong on the edge.

drilling ceramic tiles

This is the front of the tile. Looks perfect as usual.

ceramic tile

If you are a tiler then you should try a set of these drills and see what a difference they make to your workmanship.

Find our website


Article (C) by Richard Hazell of 365Drills – If you want to copy in full or part please contact for permission first

Ceramic tiles small holes (as opposed to hard porcelain) Drilling is easy with diamond drill holesaws bits

July 1, 2009

Drilling small holes for fixtures and fittings

In to ceramic or hard tiles –

By Richard Hazell of the website (C)

This is a tile we drilled using an 8mm diamond drill. We slightly overbored it to slip in a 6 or 7mm rawl plug. In this photo you can see a traditional drill bit in the orange drill pack. These are spade drills and they work from the centre out.

The spade rips the tile to form an ever wider circle until it pushes through the glaze. We however use a diamond cone. The cone only remove the outer edge of the 8mm hole making it a less agressive process. Diamond drills for use with fixtures and fitting are a gentle solution.

This is the hollow core going into the tile. Its about the size of a bic biro.

The advantage of this is less chipping of the tile in such a small area. You can see below the hole is perfect and the rawl plug just slides in.

OK so perhaps on first impressions the rawl plug is looking a bit lost in the tile but the idea is not to put pressure on the tile with the fitting. You can crack it. What we want is the substrate behind to take the weight of the fitting which could be a bathroom cabinet for example.

Here you can see the screw pushes in. Already the jaws of the plug are opening to fit the space.

The rawl plug would by now be slotted into the substrate at the back of the tile. Either ply, wood, breeze block or brick. Its the back of the tile that should bear the weight.

Also look closely at all the holes in this picture to see totally perfect holes. Even at the back.

Installing RADIATOR pipes with diamond drilling kit like Porsadrill by 365 drills bits in porcelain tiles

July 1, 2009

Tile drills for radiator pipes with our kit – By Richard Hazell of 365-Drills

Often when tiling a floor you will find the tail pipes and valves for standard radiators sticking up. Its possible to cut a deep “U” slot into the tile but the results can look ugly. Even a fine cut will show up. If you can remove the valve from the pipe then you can drill a hole into the tile and fit the pipes. The correct size is 40mm. But of course a 40mm hole with a 15mm pipe will look oversized. To conceal the hole fit a 45mm cover plate over the opening. Follow the guide below for full instructions.

1) Drill a 40mm hole into the tile.

tile drill

2) Slip radiator pipe WITH the valve over the hole

3) Seat tile down onto grout and press in place

4) The Hole at 40mm looks too big for the pipe.

Slip a pipe cover over to cap off for a perfect result

Main Website for tile drills

What happens if you use a drill bit less than 40mm when drilling holes into tiles for valves

We tried drilling smaller holes into a tile with a 30mm drill instead of a 40mm.

As you can see on the photo above 2x30mm holes side by side into a elliptical pattern make it wide enough to pass the valve through.

But examine the hole now shaded with the black area from a 40mm drill,. The actual amount of tile saved is minimal and so the test is not successful.

The best way to bore a hole into a tile of ceramic or porcelain with the express purpose of bringing through a standard radiator valve and 15mm copper supply pipe is to use a 40mm drill and to cap off with a 45mm cover plate.

In addition to the extra time and effort of drilling the 30mm also makes the hole look ugly. If for any reason in the future the cover plate comes off or is lost etc then the 40mm looks elegant. The 30mm twin hole does not.

The use of WATER to cool a diamond drill bit as it is cutting into porcelain tiles drilling grante etc

July 1, 2009
Keeping a 365 drill bit cool is easy

Every installer has a bucket and sponge to hand on site.

Make use of what is already there….

Avoid excessive heat build up… Cool drills last longer


  • Soak your sponge in water
  • Hold under the rotating diamond crown.
  • Squeeze into bucket and remove spoil...


Your wet sponge held underneath the crown will cool it by preventing heat build up.

It also collects the dust keeping your worksite clean!

Q: I see other systems cool their drills with pressurized water containers, hosepipes, water delivery systems like arbors, plus hi-tec water jets and delivery pumps.

So where is your equipment? Do I have to buy extra things?

A: Why bother to buy expensive and cumbersome pressurized bottles, water sprays, jets, pumps, feed lines when you already have a bucket of water and a sponge to hand.

Secondary water systems waste your time filling tanks with fresh water, setting them up, storage and of course cost money.. If you love gadgets and gizmos – fine. Remember you are drilling a hole not performing major heart surgery. Dont forget the more water you stream onto a site equals the more mess you make and need to clear up ! Water damage during construction is harmful and wasteful.

Q: Do I need any water?

A: Yes you need SOME but will be surprised how little is actually required. Just a splash per hole is enough. :

1.You need water to: Remove the heat that will build up in the diamond crown. Cold diamond crowns work better to a maximum of luke warm. Hot drilling is bad news for its lifespan… however holding a wet sponge under the crown delivers enough water to keep it cool. Its that easy!

2. You need water to: Reduce dust. When you drill the hole (actually you grind the hole) fine particles of porcelain form. With water jet systems the dust is forced to stream down the wall over a large surface area. If the floor or work area is not yet water tight this mix of water and spoil can be difficult and time consuming to collect. In any case collection of the water is an additonal step. Porcelain dust is so fine it gets caught in wooden floors, plasterboard, floor joists and makes a general mess over a wide area.

However if you hold a wet sponge directly under the diamond crown as you drill then not only do you lubricate and cool the crown, but the spoil actually collects in the sponge. You gain total control of the drill site. To manage the spoil simply stop drilling, drop the sponge into your water bucket and squeeze it out!


The point is magnified the higher up the wall you drill. Example: Imagine you are fitting a window blind to a tiled wall and need to drill four holes. To reach you stand on your stepladder with the drill slightly above your head.

Think about the water jet example. You have the inital burden of raising all the equipment to the correct level to reach the drill site. Things like water delivery hose pipes, heavy water pressurised container, the water jets, heavy drills, arbors as well as other stuff like mops and buckets just to drill a hole. And dont forget you have to pump the handle to pressurise the container as you drill… But imagine also the water stream coming down the wall, down your arms or over your head as you drill. Its messy. And uncomfortable.

In contrast standing on a stepladder with a lightweight battery drill and a small wet sponge with total control over water loss is much much more comfortable and simple.

Q: Why do other systems spray a continuous jet of water?

A: Those systems rely on a pilot drill or central “carbide steel pilot” to guide the core. PROBLEM! The pilot is made of carbide so burns out quickly if heated. The pilot will blunt if it gets hot. To prevent burnout a water jet must be used continuously. This requires a pressurized container full of fresh water. A pipe feed control system. A water delivery jet.

Q: Are there obvious advantages for PORSADRILL and the 365drill kit ?
  • Very low water use. Water is precious so save it. Reuse water from the bucket!
  • A sponge collects dust as you drill to eliminate mess and clean up.
  • No set up time so you work a lot quicker. Go home earlier !
  • Diamond drills recover from accidental overheating. Carbide wont.
  • Save the expense of buying a pump and water jet.
  • Save the cost of buying an arbor attachment.
  • Avoid hassle clutter with water pipes, attachment and mechanical devices.
  • You wont flood areas not yet water tight.
  • Why bring more equipment that necessary? Its already there !